Saturday, July 20, 2013

July 17 1973 - near Webatuck LT - 9.2 miles

(this daily journal was kept and rewritten by my sister Laurie and presented to me as a gift - I now rewrite it here for you)

Don was getting sick of this Omelet Pkg. he had carried 300 miles (good grief) so we cooked it up at the Pavilion. Though we got a late start, it didn't matter because we had a short day. John and Dan left early but went into Pawling. John caught up with us at a small shelter 3 miles from Webatuck LT. He brought some epoxy glue for my boots. There was a reroute here. Got near the shelter and Ernest Johns (the original bald man) was there. He had been waiting a few days for Dan & John to catch up. We sat and talked for a while and decided to set up the tent there because the shelter was steeply down and off the trail. Dan came in around 4 PM. John has been itching to do some big mileage so he said goodbye and moved on. He "smelled" New England. I read some of Ernest's poetry and was impressed.

July 16 1973 - Ed Murrow Memorial Park - 20 miles

(this daily journal was kept and rewritten by my sister Laurie and presented to me as a gift - I now rewrite it here for you)

Began hiking at 7:45. We were planning on pushing it to Holmes NY to see if anyone was going to meet us at Ed Murrow Park so we  walked fast and got to Holmes (16 m.) at 2:00. I walked 7m. in boots but switched to my sneakers because my boots are totally wrecked. It was mostly road walking anyway. Called home and got all the news. Tom couldn't come out but Jim will pick us up at Jug End, Mass. John wanted to push for the park and we agreed because there was no place to stay in Holmes. So we did our first 20 miles day. The park is gorgeous. Dan, Don & I went swimming and had a blast. There was even a kiddie slide going into the water which I just had to try. They had hot showers too - and that was too much to bear. Showered for about 1/2 hour, washed hair. Totally enjoyed ourselves. We ate under an open roof with picnic tables and lights. This place is well worth the dollar for camping.

Monday, July 15, 2013

July 15 1973 - Torrey Memorial lean-to - 6.8 miles

(this daily journal was kept and rewritten by my sister Laurie and presented to me as a gift - I now rewrite it here for you)

When we woke, the rain had stopped for a while so we ate and packed. John and Dan left a little before us. We were off at 8:30. Walked with only one stop (5 min) but the mosquitoes were fierce. Passed through Fahnestock State Park Campground. Nice park. It started raining again. Reached Torrey Memorial lean-to and it looked nice. John and Dan were already there. As we ate lunch it really started to pour. Had planned to go 6.9 more miles to Farmers Mill LT but Don spread out his sleeping bag on a bunk, crawled in, and I knew we were there for the duration. If you can't beat 'em, join 'em so I also crawled into my bag. John and Dan wanted to move on but they laid out their bags and rested. We all woke up about 5 PM. Needless to say, no one made Farmers Mill LT. It stopped raining. We ate supper. Don played the guitar and we sang. Dan started a talk on music, decibals, frequency, etc. He always tries to get everyone arguing. It's quite funny really.

July 14 - Boy Scout campground - 11.5 miles

(this daily journal was kept and rewritten by my sister Laurie and presented to me as a gift - I now rewrite it here for you)

Got up and the sun was shining. Looked like a scorcher. Off at 7:50. My boots are falling apart - soles half off on both so I walked in my sneakers all day. I was lucky the terrain wasn't too rough. Reached Canopus Crossroads and went off the trail 1 m. for groceries. Met John and Dan at the store. The temperature was 95 degrees so we sat around until 3:30, then walked back to the A.T. Hiked for 3.3 more miles, up big mountain with nice views. Sat on enormous boulders and watch the hawks flying about. Came to a Boy Scout Campground and decided to stay there if we could. John and Dan got the OK from the ranger's son. They also rode around in his jeep and got clean well water. It started to rain at 9:00pm and lasted all night. Our tent held out well - no leaks.

July 13 1973 - Hemlock Spring - 10.3 miles

(this daily journal was kept and rewritten by my sister Laurie and presented to me as a gift - I now rewrite it here for you)

Began hiking at 8. Had gotten up as John was leaving. Dan was gone even earlier. Had 8 miles to Bear Mountain Bridge. Climbed 4 mountains today (Black, West, Bear & ?). Bear Mt. was quite a climb - rock cliffs and all. When we got to the top there was an observatory we climbed. The caretaker was very friendly - we talked about West Point and the noises we had been hearing for 2 days from the artillery practice. Descended the mountain and walked through a park where we met Dan & John again. Ate lunch and then all walked together through the nature park & zoo. Laughed at everything. People were everywhere and giving us strange looks. We were laughing unreal. Got to the bridge and paid 10 cents pedestrian fee to cross. Climbed another mountain, rested a while, then moved on less than a mile where we found Hemlock Spring and decided to camp.

( best line of the day - as we passed a group of New York inner city youth in the zoo, one called out to us asking "where are you going camping mister?" to which John Silva replied "Maine"..... this brought gales of laughter from the kids.)

Friday, July 12, 2013

July 12 - Letterack Lean-to - 6.3 miles

(this daily journal was kept and rewritten by my sister Laurie and presented to me as a gift - I now rewrite it here for you)

How can I possibly describe the sheer beauty of a cool, crisp, sunny day in the mountains of New York. Words cannot describe my joy as I sit on a huge rock on the ridge soaking in the sun's warm rays and feeling a fresh wind from the north upon my face. Today is just tremendous! When we woke, it was cool. Off at 8:30 and had a nice walk to Fingerboard LT and then down to Lake Toriati where we stopped for a couple of hours and ate lunch. The weather is perfect - my favorite type of day - typical autumn weather. Got to the shelter at 2:00. Plenty of time to for contemplations. Don is playing the guitar by the lean-to below and I'm just thinking about the trip; getting a little melancholy because all our friends are moving on. We still don't know where Dan & John are. Feet are recovering. Don and I are composing an A.T. song at popular request from thru hikers. Dan & John showed. We had a good time talking. Dan showed us a special biscuit recipe with aluminum foil. Raccoon raided by night.

July 11 - Brien Memorial Lean-to site - 12.8 m hiked, 5.7 rode

(this daily journal was kept and rewritten by my sister Laurie and presented to me as a gift - I now rewrite it here for you)

Woke up from crash point with rain drops on the tent and no fly. We decided to get up fast before it started pouring. Made a quick getaway at 6:45 - didn't even eat breakfast. Instead of walking up the mountain and the 19 m. to Brien Memorial lean-to, we decided to hitch up to 17A and catch the trail there. It started pouring and no ride. Finally a guy in a VW picked us up and gave us a ride all the way to the AT. He was going the other way to work and felt bad cause it was raining so hard so he turned around. Some people are so nice. Wish there were a few more like him around. It finally stopped raining so we ate breakfast on an open rock faced mountain peak - incredible views. This was another tiring day on our feet. Still have big blisters and NY is all up and down. We found out 15  minutes before reaching the lean-to that it was torn down. Set up the tent under an enormous hemlock in case it rains. We don't know if Dan & John are ahead or behind. Rested!

(trying to fit the two of us, 2 backpacks and a guitar into a VW bug is not as easy as you might think!)

July 10 1973 - near Suprise Lake - 11.5 miles

(this daily journal was kept and rewritten by my sister Laurie and presented to me as a gift - I now rewrite it here for you)

Decided to make the most of the $19 we spent for the motel - what a ripoff. We slept late, took another shower, ate and finally left. Walked 1/2 m. to pick up the trail. Missed it. Then found it but it disappeared in a cornfield and we didn't find it until 1 hour later when I decided to crash through the woods. N.J. is very poorly blazed. Went through Wawayona State Park - not too impressed. Met Mr. Doyle parked on the side of the road, waiting for his son Warren, who is trying to set a new trail record for time. He gave us orange juice, milk and snack packs. Warren came in - he really moves. Sat down ate and talked. We found out that Dan and John weren't far in front of us so we moved out. Soon after, Warren came whizzing by. We kept trucking to Surprise Lake side trail. We were real surprised when it led us to the bottom of the mountain and no shelter. We crashed at the bottom, very tired.

(many times throughout New Jersey we would hike along and realize we hadn't seen trail markers for a while, then second guess if we missed a turn or were still on the trail. Sometimes a marker - a white rectangle painted on a tree or a rock - would finally appear, sometimes it never would and we would have to backtrack until we found one and then where the trail actually went)

Wednesday, July 10, 2013

July 9 1973 - Appalachian Motel - 15.1 miles

(this daily journal was kept and rewritten by my sister Laurie and presented to me as a gift - I now rewrite it here for you)

Hiking at 7:45. This day and the next are retrospective views, as I was too tired and beat to write on those days. Left High Point #1 and made it to Unionville (6.2m.) in 2 hours. Dan and John were already there. We met (or rather he met us) a little boy named Jed Whiting who knew Ned Barr. He was a wise guy but we had fun with him. Went through the usual town routine of eating, buying groceries, repacking, P.O., and general fooling around. It was 94 degrees in the shade so we decided not to move. Kept going into this restaurant with excellent homemade food. John left at 3. We were offered a ride that would have cut off 9 m. of walking (mostly road walking). For some reason, I didn't accept - I must be going nuts! Wish I had taken it later on. The walking was terribly hot and I got two gigantic blisters and I limped most of the way. We left at 3:30 and at 8 PM Don, Dan and I were 2.5 m. from the motel. Don and I hitched to it. Dan found John up the road a bit and they crashed by some big pipes.

(later when the story was retold, Dan & John slept inside the giant pipes stacked on the side of the road)

Tuesday, July 9, 2013

July 8 1973 - High Point lean-to - 11.1 miles

(this daily journal was kept and rewritten by my sister Laurie and presented to me as a gift - I now rewrite it here for you)

Off at 7:50 - pretty good start. The sun is up early in New Jersey. Hiked to High Point #3 shelter. This was a rather uneventful day for hiking. The temperature was about 90 degrees. We met Dave Davis whom we had been hearing about for a while. He is a thru hiker but was heading south. He had to hitch ahead for money so he hiked back. He said he would be the first hiker to reach Katahdin going south. He wants to hike the whole trail and also hitch more miles than Cyrus. Just before reaching High Point #1 (camp for tonight) we decided to go to the concession stand in the state park so we walked down. Lake Marcia beach area was luxury. John Silva was already there. We swam, ate, and talked for 4 hours before making the final mile to camp. It was such a hot day we figured we'd take it easy. Dan wondered what happened to us cause he beat us to camp - and that is a novelty.

(Cyrus-with-the-moleskin-thumb was berated by other thru hikers because he apparently hitched hiked many miles, avoiding rough or difficult portions, and taking side trips and offers of bed, bath, food or other activities scorned by the "true-take-every-step-all-the-time" thru hikers - some who would never take even a short side trail to a beautiful view or and alternate reconnecting trail. John stayed at the beach area after we left. When he caught up with us he was beside himself in ecstasy because when the concession stand shut down, they put a tray of burgers and hotdogs in the trash, which he scavenged gluttonously. He couldn't believe his good fortune or that we left and missed it! Freebees were extraordinary moments to savor and to make fellow hikers jealous.)

Sunday, July 7, 2013

July 7 - Gren Anderson lean-to - 11.4 miles

(this daily journal was kept and rewritten by my sister Laurie and presented to me as a gift - I now rewrite it here for you)

Up real early for us - 6:15. Ate breakfast while looking out at the fog in the valley. It looked real strange. Bob had to do a 20 miler today so we were off at 7:20. Made great time. The weather is hot. Nice terrain - still rocky but not bad. Stopped at a bakery and stuffed ourselves with goodies, then continued on our way. The trail isn't marked very well. Missed a turnoff and had to go back. Stopped at fire tower to rest. Got to Gren Anderson LT at 2. Bob rested an hour before heading on. He has to be in Holmes, NY by the 14th because he is short on money and food. Sorry to see him go. We'll miss him. He's a really nice guy. Met Steve Emde, Joe and Sue who were staying at the shelter that night. They had the spring full of beer and all kinds of luxuries. Dan and John came truckin in at 7 PM. We kind of expected them to come. They spent a night in the Water Gap so they had been behind us.


(thru-hikers made a point to keep track of where other thru-hikers were - in front or behind - by talking to southbound hikers or reading trail registers along the way - the trail "grapevine". As most were kindred spirits, they enjoyed each others company (mostly) or simply wanted to keep tabs on their where-a-bouts)

Saturday, July 6, 2013

July 6 1973 - shack in Stokes Forest - 16.5 miles

(this daily journal was kept and rewritten by my sister Laurie and presented to me as a gift - I now rewrite it here for you)

Good start (8:00) and the sun was shining. You could tell we were out of Penn. We walked a while and Bob caught up with us. Fantastic views and much varied terrain made the hiking more interesting. Ate lunch at a nice spot and lounged around. We kept walking past destroyed houses that were evacuated because of the proposed Tox Dam. There is a big controversy between the people and government over this. Stopped at a spring for an hour. Made last 3.5 miles. Found an old shack with a nice view and water nearby. We decided to stay. This is near Buttermilk Falls. Met 2 girls (Mary & Freddette) who spent the night there too. They showed us food tubes which looked neat. Bob was very talkative tonight. We all rapped away and had a good time. Saw first sunset. N.J. is beautiful.

( walking through this area and seeing the shells of houses and foundations - couldn't get the Neil Young song After The Gold Rush out of my head, so I added it to my nightly repertoire)

Juky 5 1973 - Sunfish Pond - 11.9 miles

(this daily journal was kept and rewritten by my sister Laurie and presented to me as a gift - I now rewrite it here for you)

Got up and headed for town (8:35 AM). Made great time - we really "smelled" town - latest expression. The trail and views were beautiful from the Minski fire tower on down. Best yet. Penn. goes out with a blaze of glory. Had a sundae in Delaware Water Gap. Went to P.O. and picked up letters and a package. We got new socks and I got new cutoffs - great (my others were about falling off). Went to grocery store but there wasn't a good selection of food. Ate lunch at a picnic table and wrote home. Just as we were leaving, we met a lady who gave us a ride to the National Forest Service Building. Also we met Annie Hall and Paul (Ga. - Me.). Walked up towards Sunfish Pond. Beautiful section. Met a guy Russ who gave us a 40 minute talk on salvation and the Bible. Got to the pond. Went for a swim and washed hair - felt great. Ate supper. Bob came by. We had a long talk. Camped with us for the night.

(we spent lots of hours the past weeks complaining about the trail condition through PA., and were quite smug thinking about the poor southbound hikers who enter into the state on this great trail making them think they were in for a smooth hike ahead! Our boots were taking a beating and so were our feet. I imagine Russ believed that Laurie and I were two young adults living in sin. We never got to interrupt him and inform him we are brother and sister. Bob Bell was the only serious hiker who used a rucksack instead of a framed backpack, ate poptarts for supper and used a sheet of clear plastic hung over twine as a makeshift pup-tent.)

Friday, July 5, 2013

July 4 1973 - Kirkridge Shelter - 14.6 miles

(this daily journal was kept and rewritten by my sister Laurie and presented to me as a gift - I now rewrite it here for you)

Todays hiking was poor. The hiking to Wind Gap had nice switchbacks but afterwards, we ran into the worst trail yet. Small rocks sticking out everywhere and the brush practically hid the trail. Kept tripping. Pa has the worst planned and maintained trails. After Wolf Rocks the trail got nice. Met 3 guys hiking south from the Water Gap. Got to shelter tired. Bob was already there. A group of boy scouts came by the shelter but camped nearby. Usually thru hikers have first choice on shelters. We are almost considered part of the group. Talk is going up and down the trail grapevine about a guy carrying a guitar. We're feeling really good about the whole trip and everything! Since it is the 4th of July, we climbed on the roof of the Kirkridge Retreat House along with the boy scouts and their leaders. Don set off a pack of fire crackers and scared everyone. Broke open a bottle of Cold Duck and shared it. Met John Silva - another Ga - Me thru hiker.

(OK - so I carried Cold Duck, Firecrackers and a guitar - VERY non-conformist! My pack was much lighter after this night)

July 3 1973 - Smith Shelter on Katellan side trail - 12.1 miles

(this daily journal was kept and rewritten by my sister Laurie and presented to me as a gift - I now rewrite it here for you)

Had Alpen and blueberries for breakfast - what a treat. Got an early start - 8:05. Had a small climb out of Little Gap. We're not moving very fast today - must be tired. Caught up with Dan after 5.3 miles. He was eating a snack so we stopped. Went 3.6m. more and stopped at Smith Gap for lunch. Ate tons since we have lots of food after hitting town. The last 3 m. were incredibly long. The weather is crumby! All fog - has started to rain so we all have wet feet. Arrived at new shelter - nice! Two hikers, Pete and Laurie came in from the Water Gap. Another thru hiker named Bob Bell caught up with us. Had blueberry pancakes for supper.

(Dan was the slowest hiker we had met - made us feel speedy! He was usually the first to leave a shelter and last to arrive at the next.)

July 2 1973 - 4.7 AT miles - 3 miles to town

(this daily journal was kept and rewritten by my sister Laurie and presented to me as a gift - I now rewrite it here for you)

We didn't rush getting up this morning cause we had to go into Palmerton for supplies. We're practically out of goodies and lunches so instead of pressing to the Delaware water Gap, we hitched into Palmerton. Found an A&P, bought lots of candy, munchies, and general good stuff; went to the park to eat our potato salad and repack the food, then went to a restaurant for lunch. Hiked 2 m. back to A.T. and climbed out of Lehigh Gap. We had plenty of time and my stomach wasn't feeling especially good after guzzling down a milk shake in town so we stopped a few times on the way up. The views were impressive. We reached the campsite (4 m. after Lehigh river) and rested. A group of kids came by and stopped to talk. Dan found us cause he heard the guitar. Don and Dan found a blueberry patch so we picked another quart.

(Dan Welch was an electrical engineer with the Navy and would talk incessantly about thing nobody else could understand. He was simultaneously entertaining and exasperating) 

July 1 1973 - Outerbridge Lean-to - 12.4 miles

(this daily journal was kept and rewritten by my sister Laurie and presented to me as a gift - I now rewrite it here for you)

Off at 8:10. Made good time to Bake Oven Knob LT. Dan, Bill and Jim were already there. Rested and went on. We stopped for lunch and were getting ready to go when Dan came along - so we sat another 15 minutes. As we walked, we met 3 ladies picking huckleberries. We called them blueberries. A little further along the trail we found a great patch and picked a quart. The last 2 m. seemed long. Reached the shelter at 2:30. It has bunks. Bill and Jim were there. They left soon after - nice guys. Three kids were there camping - Chris, Scott, and Jim. They had all sorts of stuff - food, tape deck, battery operated light; you name it! Got our first freebees; 2 hotdogs each and assorted snacks. They were nice kids. Dan was really funny talking them into giving us food. A guy and kid came into shelter later. A skunk joined us later that night.

June 30 1973 - New Tripoli Shelter - 14.2 miles

(this daily journal was kept and rewritten by my sister Laurie and presented to me as a gift - I now rewrite it here for you)

Started hiking at 8:15 - best yet. We had a long climb out of Eckville. Made the 8 miles to Allentown LT where we ate lunch. A group of boy scouts were there. We talked to the leader then moved on. Next met a gut and his wife doing all of Pa. in short hikes. Then we met 4 young guys hiking south. Crossed Rt. 209 and had planned to eat at the restaurant but it didn't open until 5 P.M. She let us in for Coke though. We met 5 more people along the trail before arriving at New Tripoli Shelter at 3 P.M. It was tiny - fits 3 comfortably. Dan was there He was taking a short day. Three hikers came in and set up a tent. Then 2 thru hikers came - Jim Hodges and Bill Rhombin. Had tuna a-la-king for supper - good.

June 29 1973 - Hawk Mt Sanctuary - 8.7 miles

(this daily journal was kept and rewritten by my sister Laurie and presented to me as a gift - I now rewrite it here for you)

I woke up at 7:00. It was really raining hard. Fred, Mike, Dave and Dan all got up and got ready to leave. These thru-hikers march right out - rain or shine. Guess they have to make their milage. It is 16.5 m to the next shelter - Allentown. Don has a great way of letting me know he's not moving. He just lies in his sleeping bag and pretends he's asleep. He got up at 9:30. We ate and played cards - hoping - hoping for the weather to break. It stopped raining at 12noon. We left at 12:30. We went up a river they called the A.T. to Pulpit Rock and the Pinnacle. Great Views! Got to "the pleasant hamlet of Eckville" at 5 P.M. Nothing there but a bus stop we almost camped in. Stopped in the woods near a flooded stream - 10 yds r. of sign - Hawk Mt. Sancuary land - NO CAMPING! Set up tent. Pancakes for supper. To bed early.

June 28 1973 - Winsor Furnace Shelter - 5 miles

(this daily journal was kept and rewritten by my sister Laurie and presented to me as a gift - I now rewrite it here for you)

Got up at 8:00. John went to the post office and got his package. Jay was getting ready to hitch home. We all went down for breakfast and gorged ourselves on bacon, eggs, toast and OJ - so much that Don's stomach was in an uproar. Jay left for Mass, I went to PO and store, John got ready to go and Don didn't do anything but lay on the bed and groan. Said goodbye to john, knowing that we wouldn't be catching up with him. We'll miss his optimism. Don and I left the Hotel at 11:30. Ascended steeply and then couldn't find the shelter, but a guy from the Hamburg Water Supply gave us a ride cause it started to rain hard. A guy named Dave (hiking for a week) came in and showered in the rain - it was really pouring. The next drowned rats that came in were two more thru-hikers - Fred Elliott and Mike DiNunzio. The stream water was muddy so we creeped up past the $500 fine signs and got water from the Hamburg Reservoir. These guys are crazy. We played attacking the Germans and were then apprehended by the Dobermans. Met Dan Welch (Ga.-Me.)

(Mike & Fred - as they were exclusively referred to - dressed like wild bikers, intentionally to spook off day-hikers who might infringe on limited shelter space. When they approached a campsite and detected Boy Scouts or other groups of campers, they would stop and wait while another thru-hiker friend preceded them into camp and started talking about the crazed hikers who were heading to camp here soon, which caused more than one group to relocate their gear at a safe distance.  Later the story was told about them in the White's of NH, where at a shelter that displayed a poster acknowledging the efforts of thru-hikers and their need to travel light and how other hikers should make accommodations for them, Mike grabbed a guy by the collar, pushed his face to the sign and growled "got a tent Jack? Use It!". A few years later, Laurie, Wes and I visited Mike in the Adirondack's where he was an environmental scientist taking water samples in local lakes testing for acid rain.)